Pages


Wednesday, July 27, 2022

Secrets of a Medieval Castle

Chepstow Castle, one of the first stone built castles in Wales, construction began in 1067, a year after the Norman invasion. Kevin Hicks has taken students around Chepstow for almost 30 years. Today, he takes you on a special tour of his favourite castle and shares with you some of the secrets he's discovered over that time. 

VIDEO HERE  (31:44 minutes)

*****

This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I dig castles and always have since I was a little kid.
When we were living in Germany the first time back in the mid to late 1960s, my father's favorite thing to do was to load us and any other neighbor kids hanging around into the Rambler Station Wagon and go castle-hopping - just driving around until he saw a castle or ruins on a hilltop, then driving up to check it out. It was an almost every weekend thing, weather permitting. Sometimes we'd hit a couple a day.
We saw so many damned castles I couldn't keep them straight. When I was stationed in the same area in the late 70s and early '80s, I found myself doing the same thing, only to realize that most of them I had already been to before 12 or 13 years earlier.

When we lived in Germany during the mid 1970s there was a castle in ruins in much the same condition as the one in the video on a hilltop overlooking the town of Hohenecken just a couple miles as the crow flies to the southwest of our quarters. It was built around the year 1150 AD, although I can't remember for the life of me when it was abandoned or why.
Me and all my friends spent a lot of time up there between exploring, partying or just hanging out. We rarely saw anybody else up there.  At that time, it was pretty much overgrown and the grounds were maintained maybe once a year when a crew would come up and spend a day cutting brush. Nowadays, it's been cleaned up pretty good from the pictures I've seen. While I'm thinking of it, you can get a good look of the ruins HERE.

We prowled all over those ruins. There wasn't a wall or tower we didn't scale or a tunnel we didn't explore. I remember once we found a hole in one of the walls and bellied our way down into it and though a short tunnel that had been filled in at one point, finding ourselves in a low room, maybe 3 feet high, with short lengths of chain attached to the wall and stone flooring by some pretty heavy duty anchors. A dungeon, maybe?

If you'll go to the link above and then scroll through the pictures, you'll see an arch with a metal gate. That's the entryway into the castle grounds, although the metal gate wasn't there back in the '70s.
I remember one time I was walking through there with my girlfriend, and Rhonda said it was good luck to be kissed at the gate and me never passing up a chance to try to touch a titty, I pushed her against the wall on the left of the gate to kiss her. She was barefoot and when she stepped backwards she yelped and said that she'd cut her foot, so I bent down to see what she'd cut it on and found something black poking out of the ground. I dug it out and it was a silver crucifix maybe an inch and a half long. It was oxidized but in almost perfect shape other than some minor pitting on the back and the loop at the top where a chain would attach being broken off which is probably why it was lost to begin with. She took it home and showed her mother who took it to a family friend who was a silversmith, and this friend cleaned the oxidation off, then took it to a historian where it was determined that it dated to around 1400 AD, give or take 50 years. I can't tell you how much of a thrill it was to hold something in my hand knowing the last person to touch it was almost 600 years earlier.
When I ran into Rhonda 10 years later, I asked about it and she told me she still had it and was going to pass it down to her daughter.

We took my history teacher up there once and showed him what all we found and the conclusions we'd come to, and he told us we were pretty much spot on, then filled us in on other details that we hadn't thought about like the interior was almost certainly plastered and whitewashed to improve lighting on the inside, he showed us defenses we'd missed, told us the stone ruins just outside the castle walls were more than likely storehouses for grain and feed, shit like that.
We couldn't get his opinion on our dungeon because in his words, "I'm too damned old and feeble to act like a gopher," him being maybe 35 or 40 years old at the time.

All in all, it was a really great place to hang out, explore and learn. And while I didn't realize it at the time, it started a weird thing with me.
Any time I ran across ruins whether it was in Germany or the mining regions of California, I always tried to envision what the sites or structures looked like while they were active, then I'd see if the ruins that remained might've supported my thoughts. Castles were pretty hard, but if it was a mining site up in the Mother Lode or in the Trans-Sierra most of the time I'd be close - here was the shaft entrance, over here was the assay office, next to that was the operations office, here was the blacksmith shop, here was the stables. I mean, it wasn't that difficult - in the remains of the blacksmith shop you'd find clusters of square nails and spikes used for timbering as well as star drills that they were making or sharpening, at the assay office site there would be old clay crucibles and broken glass from beakers, in the stables would be bits of harness or harness hardware and of course right outside the shaft would be a mine dump where the barren waste rock excavated from the shaft was discarded. If there was a mill on site, you could find that site because of the finer rock, the tailings, downhill from that. It wasn't that difficult to do with a very basic knowledge of mining operations back then.
With the mining townsites, it was usually more difficult to get the layout of the town and businesses because there was usually no trace at all left, but sometimes (key word there) they could be verified with old photographs which made for a pretty cool timewaster during the winter months or when I couldn't string along enough days off from work to be in the hills for any period of time. I'd go to the library or local historical society to look up a site or town, and if I found a picture, I'd either make a copy from the library book or buy the publication from the historical society, then take it with me when I went back to the site a month or two later. Looking at the old photo, I'd try and find the exact spot where the original photograph was taken, then I'd take one or two of my own for comparison and pop that sucker in a photo album where nobody else would ever see them. Like I said, a timewaster if you could consider learning anything, no matter how useless, a waste of time.

26 comments:

  1. I remember walking around the remnants of Tikal thirty years ago and thinking the people, including the royalty, must've all lived in huts. Not so much as one small structure there that might've served as a habitation. I think this is true for most of the ruins of ancient structures in the Western Hemisphere. Maybe people could live UNDER some of the pyramids, etc, but otherwise what remains had to have been for ceremonial or public use...Anasazi Ruins excepted.

    I also recall seeing pictures of towns in Marin County from more than a century ago and they could barely be reconciled with what's there now... well, actually, I can recall Marin County from sixty years ago and it bares only the remotest resemblance to what is there now. --nines

    ReplyDelete
  2. Sounds a lot like my childhood. Dad was stationed in Stuttgart in the late sixties, and we had a lot of the same adventures that you describe.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. We were in Schwäbisch Gmünd when I was a kid and later I was stationed in Heilbronn, both within an hour's drive to Stuttgart.

      Delete
  3. I wouldn't consider exploring and learning about mines a waste of time at all. Several mines near where I live and one of my sons and I will visit them every once in awhile. Even brought some of the old wood lying around and made signs out of them. Never have visited castles before, that would be so cool. Keep enjoying, maybe you could post some of those before and after pics.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Kenny, I get it. I love learning things. I used to say that if I ever hit the lottery I'd be a professional student; with the state of universities now, I think I'd be better remaining an autodidact, learning from books, and now video. Be nice to be a rich autodidact, though.
    I also love ruins. During my Med cruise, a lot of the ports we hit had old Greek, Roman, Spanish, Arab, Hebrew, Ottoman, and who knows what other civilization's roads, architecture, and infrastructure.
    I get it with pictures, too. I have a tub full of photo envelopes from the '80s to now. Some of the pics I haven't seen in 30 years or so. My Dad died having never seen my Navy pics, & that I regret.
    Sorry for my long-windedness. The ruins sound like a cool place to have been a kid, & especially a teen!
    --Tennessee Budd

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Same for me on my Med Cruise in 69/70 on CVA42. Even walked through the Parthenon, which you can't do now. Malta was interesting, with prehistoric buildings. I was History Major in College so this was great for me.

      Delete
  5. Awesome. During my .mil career I spent some time in Japan. I’ve visited Himeji-jo, Osaka-jo and Matsumoto-jo.

    Impressive. Hard to believe how they built those, let alone fought over/stormed them.


    If you are so inclined go ahead and read the Book of Five Rings and the Warrior Koans.

    Ragnar

    ReplyDelete
  6. Cool video and enjoyed your story too. My sisters go to Scotland on occasion and always tour the castle that is of our family name. It's in ruins but I know one tower still stands and my sisters have been taken up to the top by guide. I too am intrested in ruins and history.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Absorbing experiences like you have are ,to me, the foundation of a fed intellect. Such things make for a fine example of stories to share. Where I live now, Friday night football is all people know. Makes me tired.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Kenny, have you ever explored the train tunnels up at Donner? I am thinking that may be a short trip for when I retire.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Naw, I never did. I spent most of my time in the Sonora Pass area. It was closer to home.

      Delete
  9. Kenny, Hohenecken castle was blown up by the French in 1689. It was in decline already and badly damaged from the peasants war and a siege in 1668. I remember walking over from Volgelweh when I was stationed at Ramstein.
    I loved visiting the castles. Also toured a copper mine when I was there.
    I went with a friend and his wife. Their son was almost a year old and full of energy. I was having fun playing with him. So much so that I distracted everyone including our guide.

    ReplyDelete
  10. I know that castle at Honecken. Crawled all over it in the 80’s. Had one virtually in my backyard in Orford, Suffolk, UK when I was stationed at RAF Bentwaters…. fun stuff!

    ReplyDelete
  11. I've never had the pleasure\adventure of going to Europe or any other country except Canada which on the west coast is not really a foreign country. I do love all things historical and learning all kinds of subjects and wish I had been born before my parents went to England rather than afterwards.
    When I took a recent trip to Casper WY from Vancouver, WA I wanted to take about three weeks, but only had a week. I did get to check out some good sites and saw a reenactment of the driving of the Golden Spike at Promontory Summit, UT. Stumbled upon that one which was fortuitous as I was not aware I would be passing that close.
    I tend to look at old homes I have lived in or visited to try to "see" the history of the structure and how it expanded over time; I also do this when visiting some older businesses and like how some of those are repurposed for offices, restaurants and other venues.

    ReplyDelete
  12. My Wife and I have been to Chepstow Castle many times. Gateway to Wales. One year we did a driving tour around Wales, visiting all of Edward I Castles. Some in good repair, others not. Great times.

    ReplyDelete
  13. I enjoy your stories more than any other thing on your blog.

    ReplyDelete
  14. What a great adventure. That's what living is about. The history of it all sets the imagination off the charts. Certainly no waste of time. But time, well spent.
    Ohio Guy

    ReplyDelete
  15. I recall the Castle in Hohenecken. Went to the castle at Landstuhl as well. That was the first go round. The second time, we went to Landstuhl again, but the one at Hohenecken, as my father was sent to Echterdingen Airfield to run the DFAC there. We then went to the Hohenzollern Castle. The Hohenzollern Castle is the most interesting of the sites I saw in Germany. The next best was a nice museum in Berchtesgaden, along with the sites on the Obersalzburg. Alas, the Obersalzburg has been raped by the Bavarian authorities in violation of the own historical preservation laws. The Patterhoff (General Walker Hotel) was torn down and that dated back to the 19th century. Tuerkel is still there, but the family had to buy it back and restore it after the war.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yup, been to all of those and stayed in the General Walker too.

      Delete
  16. I've also always liked learning about historical sites, even worked on an archaeological crew for a couple of summers. Spent a lot of time in the Edwardian castles in North Wales, especially Caernarfon and Conwy - loved climbing around the ruins, trying to picture the way things were, fascinated by the technology and time and money it cost to build them. Also realized many of the Welsh would probably tear them down if they could, given that they were built in order for Edward I to be able to conquer the Welsh. But the architecture and functionality of the siting and construction was a bit eye opening - like the 'murder holes' above the entry way. Cool structures.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lucky you. I've always thought I missed my calling as an archeologist.

      Delete
  17. Toured the Warwick Castle in England. Impressive places. Bit of labor putting those things together. The dungeon was something you don't forget.

    ReplyDelete
  18. i did many castles too, oddly, never Hohenecken.

    ReplyDelete
  19. When I was stationed at Rhein Main AB we would go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankenstein_Castle every Halloween. Plus quite a few others up along the Rhein River

    Steve L.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I went to school at K-Town high, was official flag raiser in 1963 when JFK was killed. Went to Hohenecken castle all the time, there was a big wild blue berry patch on the way up from Voglewhe, good memories, thanks Kenny

    ReplyDelete

All comments are moderated due to spam, drunks and trolls.
Keep 'em civil, coherent, short, and on topic.