every youtube instructional video ever: mildly annoying accent 1:30 of subscribe, like, click on notifications, 4 minutes to explain what could be said in 30 seconds
I'm with you. Usually if they don't get to the point in the first 30 sec's I'm done. I advanced past the BS to where the explanations were to see if I could learn something. Well guess what? I did. Didn't know about that fourth way using the backside step. So I guess it worth it. I would have used the depth indicator to make that step measurement. It's not as difficult as he makes it out to be, especially when you have a nice flat surface to rest the foot of the indicator against.
Nemo
I have a 30+ year old Brown & Sharp .001 dial indicator in its original wooden case that was given to me by the machine shop supervisor where I worked. The pointer on the dial is a smidge off, less than 1/4 the width of the pointer, perfectly fine for what I need it for. The jaws still line up perfectly with no light showing through any where along their length.
I have one set, a Mitutoyo verniers. No dial, no digits, I've been using so seldom I have to sit and think about how to read and hope I see the numbers. I mostly just use them to check case length and keep a case that case that is my max with the dies so I just set the caliper to that case, no reading required.
Do you mean temperature stability? 10.6 microinches per degree Fahrenheit per inch, deviated from the temp at which it was calibrated. Sorry, but that's burned into my head. I may have been doing this too long. --Tennessee Budd
Nothing I did not know from my 45 years in the industrual trades. A real test of accuracy is honing a 36 inch cylinder with 3/4" air drill by feel and ending up with .0005 accuracy (taper, barrel, and hour glass) The trick involves a good sense of feel and knowing not to over-adjust the cutting hone so you don't wind up with a fucking broken arm! This obviously involved actual calibrated micrometers.
I'm a calibration technician--it's what I do, & I actually love my job. I've been doing it for nearly 20 years now. All of our caliper calibrations verify OD, ID, depth, & step functions, unless the particular unit doesn't check one of the functions. Most do, but not all: the bigger, like 3'/300mm calipers, generally don't do depth, but they still do step. If you're in an industrial environment & have access to your instruments' certs, check them. If the cert doesn't verify all 4 functions, & the manufacturer states that the instrument does check all 4, find a different calibration lab. Calibration folks are some picky fuckers, & we think like engineers (the engineering degree helps, unless we were already that way, & that's why we do this for a living; chicken, egg, you figure it out. I can't). You might be surprised by how many people don't know about the step function. Shit, some have no idea what the little spanner in an OD micrometer case is for.
I've got a set of 0"-1" and 1"-2" micrometers and will generally use them if the piece is under 2 inches. I get a better reading from those. I don't own anything digital. Both calipers are dial and the mics are verniers. I may also have vernier calipers that my father left me floating around here somewhere.
Calipers are best +/- .005 tolerances or bigger and for a quick reference. Also there are a lot of times when a mic will not work to measure a specific area of a part. The best way to measure what he was talking about would be to measure the short shoulder and zero the calipers then measure the over all and itll give you the most accurate read.
Been there and done that, did not work in many real precision shops and was just starting to get into that aspect of work. Got laid off from one of my jobs just before Christmas one year, went home for the holiday and checked in after...still no call back and decided to look for work in the Van\Port area. Went back to the shop in Everett to get my tools and move back to Vancouver, discovered some a-hole had stolen my box. It was only a small 7 drawer machinist toolbox, but it was crammed full of tools most purchased via payroll deduction or payment plans to the tool trucks. I did not pursue it as I was young and naive; would get sick to my stomach for years after just thinking about it. Had a nice 12" Mitutoyo and 6" Starrett dial calipers among other tools, had a handy base attachment for the Starrett that would add stability when measuring depth esp if the opening was larger than the end of the tool. Wish I had them now. :(
This Utube dude is NOT correct in his assertion that the depth measure cannot measure a step. In fact the very tip of the depth measure has a notch in it for clearance of a radius at the bottom of the STEP whether it's an OD step or ID step<---aka counter-bore!!! Why else would there be a clearance notch for measuring a thru-hole depth???
Furthermore...there is an attachment that can be added to the so-called "depth" measure that widens the base for proper angular position https://cdn3.volusion.com/nosbh.jwzdp/v/vspfiles/photos/205330-5.jpg
And don't get me started why digi calipers should NEVER be trusted to measure accurately in tenths (.0001 - .0009)!!! Use a mic or bore gauge for that!!!
Phil should post to his
ReplyDeleteevery youtube instructional video ever:
ReplyDeletemildly annoying accent
1:30 of subscribe, like, click on notifications,
4 minutes to explain what could be said in 30 seconds
I'm with you. Usually if they don't get to the point in the first 30 sec's I'm done. I advanced past the BS to where the explanations were to see if I could learn something. Well guess what? I did. Didn't know about that fourth way using the backside step. So I guess it worth it. I would have used the depth indicator to make that step measurement. It's not as difficult as he makes it out to be, especially when you have a nice flat surface to rest the foot of the indicator against.
DeleteNemo
I have a 30+ year old Brown & Sharp .001 dial indicator in its original wooden case that was given to me by the machine shop supervisor where I worked. The pointer on the dial is a smidge off, less than 1/4 the width of the pointer, perfectly fine for what I need it for. The jaws still line up perfectly with no light showing through any where along their length.
He got me on that one. Good to know
ReplyDeleteI have one set, a Mitutoyo verniers. No dial, no digits, I've been using so seldom I have to sit and think about how to read and hope I see the numbers. I mostly just use them to check case length and keep a case that case that is my max with the dies so I just set the caliper to that case, no reading required.
ReplyDeleteThat was useful. I didn't know about the 4th method. I figure if my cartridge OAL is within .003 of the intended length, it's close enough.
ReplyDeleteHe would have been more credible if he had used a dial caliper.
ReplyDeleteI didn't learn anything new.
Gotta love experts. I expected him to mention stability aspects of the calibration block but no...
ReplyDeleteDo you mean temperature stability? 10.6 microinches per degree Fahrenheit per inch, deviated from the temp at which it was calibrated. Sorry, but that's burned into my head. I may have been doing this too long.
Delete--Tennessee Budd
Nothing I did not know from my 45 years in the industrual trades. A real test of
ReplyDeleteaccuracy is honing a 36 inch cylinder with 3/4" air drill by feel and ending up with
.0005 accuracy (taper, barrel, and hour glass) The trick involves a good sense of
feel and knowing not to over-adjust the cutting hone so you don't wind up with a
fucking broken arm! This obviously involved actual calibrated micrometers.
I'm a calibration technician--it's what I do, & I actually love my job. I've been doing it for nearly 20 years now.
ReplyDeleteAll of our caliper calibrations verify OD, ID, depth, & step functions, unless the particular unit doesn't check one of the functions. Most do, but not all: the bigger, like 3'/300mm calipers, generally don't do depth, but they still do step. If you're in an industrial environment & have access to your instruments' certs, check them. If the cert doesn't verify all 4 functions, & the manufacturer states that the instrument does check all 4, find a different calibration lab.
Calibration folks are some picky fuckers, & we think like engineers (the engineering degree helps, unless we were already that way, & that's why we do this for a living; chicken, egg, you figure it out. I can't).
You might be surprised by how many people don't know about the step function. Shit, some have no idea what the little spanner in an OD micrometer case is for.
--Tennessee Budd
I'll bite, T. Budd. What is the little spanner for?
DeleteI always thought the little spanner was useful for getting stuff dislodged from between my teeth.
DeleteGot accuracy? Got precision?
Well, I learned something new today. Also, $30 isn't cheap to some of us, but, getting there.
ReplyDelete- arc
“incorrectly”
ReplyDeleteDamn.
Calipers are for people who can't read micrometers. Just hand somebody a mic when they ask to use your calipers, see what happens.
ReplyDeleteI've got a set of 0"-1" and 1"-2" micrometers and will generally use them if the piece is under 2 inches. I get a better reading from those.
DeleteI don't own anything digital. Both calipers are dial and the mics are verniers. I may also have vernier calipers that my father left me floating around here somewhere.
Calipers are best +/- .005 tolerances or bigger and for a quick reference. Also there are a lot of times when a mic will not work to measure a specific area of a part. The best way to measure what he was talking about would be to measure the short shoulder and zero the calipers then measure the over all and itll give you the most accurate read.
DeleteIf you have digital calipers instead of dial, you're using them wrong!!!!
ReplyDeleteYou can also measure the overall length, zero the calipers, and then measure the length to the shoulder to get that dimension.
ReplyDeleteBeen there and done that, did not work in many real precision shops and was just starting to get into that aspect of work.
ReplyDeleteGot laid off from one of my jobs just before Christmas one year, went home for the holiday and checked in after...still no call back and decided to look for work in the Van\Port area.
Went back to the shop in Everett to get my tools and move back to Vancouver, discovered some a-hole had stolen my box. It was only a small 7 drawer machinist toolbox, but it was crammed full of tools most purchased via payroll deduction or payment plans to the tool trucks.
I did not pursue it as I was young and naive; would get sick to my stomach for years after just thinking about it.
Had a nice 12" Mitutoyo and 6" Starrett dial calipers among other tools, had a handy base attachment for the Starrett that would add stability when measuring depth esp if the opening was larger than the end of the tool.
Wish I had them now. :(
This Utube dude is NOT correct in his assertion that the depth measure cannot measure a step. In fact the very tip of the depth measure has a notch in it for clearance of a radius at the bottom of the STEP whether it's an OD step or ID step<---aka counter-bore!!! Why else would there be a clearance notch for measuring a thru-hole depth???
ReplyDeleteFurthermore...there is an attachment that can be added to the so-called "depth" measure that widens the base for proper angular position https://cdn3.volusion.com/nosbh.jwzdp/v/vspfiles/photos/205330-5.jpg
And don't get me started why digi calipers should NEVER be trusted to measure accurately in tenths (.0001 - .0009)!!! Use a mic or bore gauge for that!!!