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Friday, March 24, 2023

Best Chicken Coop Kits: Our 3 Choices and First Time Buyers Guide

There are many chicken coop kits out there for the chicken enthusiast to choose from, but how do you know where to start, especially if you are also new to chickens?

We have set out a buying guide here for you – things to look for, consider and avoid.

While circumstances and needs vary from coop to coop, and person to person, there are some basic things you need to look for.

Not all coops will have everything you want but remember, chickens are fairly simple creatures.

*****

When I first started keeping chickens, Lisa insisted on buying a henhouse/coop kit. I forget what I paid for it, but it was in the neighborhood of 300 bucks. 
What a piece of shit. It's made out of soft wood and started coming apart after the second year.

When I got my second batch of birds, I took that asshole dog Jack's kennel (HERE) and moved it downwind from the house out by the shed.
I bought two pieces of trash plywood to line the walls halfway from one end to the other, as well as the far end. That way they've got part of the run to keep them out of the weather, but it still allows circulation and a place for them to get some sun. I used the plywood that was left to build a long nesting box at the enclosed end. Then I wrapped the roof in chicken wire to keep the RACcoons and possums out.
In the long run, it cost me close to what I paid for the first one, but it's been 4 years and is still going strong. I know I'll eventually have to buy another cover or build a roof for it, but that ain't no big deal.

14 comments:

  1. I used a garden shed that somebody built "too short." It didn't bother me; I'm only 5'2" and chickens don't need headroom. Built nesting boxes for them and let them have the run of the sheep pasture. Best tasting poultry and eggs I ever had.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I wish I could let the Daisys free range like I do Annie and the Brown Bitch, but as soon as I open the coop to let them out, they put some serious distance between them and the coop. They won't stay on their own 3 acres, they head to the neighbor's pasture and the woods where they're vulnerable to critter attacks.
      I let them out for about 10 minutes while I clean their nesting box and coop, and feed and water them, then I spend the next 20 minutes locating and rounding them up. Thank God they're not runners, they do let me pick them up, but it's still a pain in the ass.

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  2. First we go a coop kit. Then we put that inside a run:
    https://www.wayfair.com/Tucker-Murphy-Pet%E2%84%A2--Rockfield-Walk-In-Chicken-Run-with-Wire-Mesh-X117733850-L2960-K~W006622749.html?refid=GX528838117677-W006622749_1097737951&device=c&ptid=1433621095563&network=g&targetid=pla-1433621095563&channel=GooglePLA&ireid=145787023&fdid=1817&PiID%5B%5D=1097737951&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlPWgBhDHARIsAH2xdNc3LYqEgABvlrURACmoynuXmA1Hf01Geug-HN7tbc2fr13JDC00wewaAs4DEALw_wcB

    I put a tarp over that to keep the weather out. Then we had a unusual heavy snow and it collapsed the gambrel roof. I then wedged that up and put a rigdeline on it for the tarp.

    Then we got more chicks and a new coop given to us. So I raised the chicks in the coop next to the run. When those hens were big enough I just cut a hole between their coop and the run.

    The whole thing looks like a tenement project that's been Mickey Moused upon Rube Goldberged upon jury-rigged.

    I like it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I like it too. Thanks, that may be my next run.

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  3. I am tackling building a chicken coop as soon as done with the greenhouse.
    I'm thinking smaller coop and bigger run.

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    Replies
    1. That's a smart move. The only time they're in the henhouse is when they're laying or at night. If you live in a cooler climate, the smaller henhouse is warmer because of their body heat. We get down to zero degrees a few times during the winter, and my chickens do just fine with a smaller henhouse with no heat.

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  4. As I was reading the article at the jump, I was thinking that a garden shed or any other similar sized 12x8' outbuilding might do. Jen above beat me to it.

    A suggestion: there may be local lumber yards unaffiliated with any big box hardware/lumber sellers in your area that make and sell garden sheds in all shapes, sizes and price ranges that suit, which you can modify into a suitable coop or the plans and lumber which you can then build yourself.

    There's one in my area that sells a bunch of sheds that they build at their yard every year. Their sheds are tanks. I had one of theirs when I owned a house. It's 800 or so miles from where you are so listing their contact deets wouldn't be productive.

    They may even have plans for coops which they will sell you the plans and lumber for. Once you've got the coop set up, then attach a plastic pipe built skeleton covered in wire and clear or colored(for shade) plastic roofing panels for a run like what Guard Duck did.

    Nemo

    ReplyDelete
  5. As someone who builds for a living, I'll just build my own. Good advice on the size though hadn't thought of that, keeping it smaller to conserve heat. What I'll plan is a structure I can add on to easily. Planning to start with 8 to 12 and no roosters, I fuckin hate roosters unless I'm carving them.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. My nesting box/henhouse for the Daisys is 4 feet long, about a foot high and maybe 16 inches wide. I've got a lid mounted on hinges to get the eggs, and I have a small free swinging door so they can get out on their own in the morning. When I go out in the evening to lock up the coop, they're already inside and piled up on each other, taking up maybe a quarter of the box. That's in the winter - I imagine during the warmer months they'll roost outside in the coop.

      Make it easy on yourself and build the box in a manner that you can get the eggs without actually going into the coop. That'll keep them from rushing you trying to get out of the coop while you're trying to get in to gather the eggs. I didn't do that with the kennel and I wish I had.

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    2. Oh yeah. I originally put the coop inside the run and had to sprinkle treats at them to get in to the eggs.

      When I opened up the wire to the new coop that's outside the run - the hens all decided that one was where they wanted to lay eggs, and the inside one was where they'd all cuddle.

      Having access to the eggs from the outside is much nicer.

      My next project this spring is to set up feeders and waterer's that I can re-fill from outside as well.

      I have my chicken and goat water sourced from rainwater collection as it is (was easier than running a hose or new pipe out to them), and I'm thinking of running something to collect rainwater off the chicken run's roof to replace or at least augment most of the wet season water refills.

      Delete
  6. Tractor Supply - "Sentinel" coop
    Truly is predator proof
    Powder coated square metal frame
    Powder coated wire screen, welded
    The only thing I could improve on would be a second access door
    I placed mine on a concrete footing to prevent "tunneling"
    https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/producers-pride-mini-defender-coop-mdc001?cm_vc=-10005

    ReplyDelete
  7. I've actually witnessed a red tail hawk, make a dive at my girls,
    only to "bounce off the wire screen on my Sentinel coop

    ReplyDelete
  8. We have one of those kennels that we bought at Home Depot about 5 years ago. Cover started ripping about two years ago. Kept checking for replacements which finally became available a year after I started watching. Checked HD shortly after it arrived and they were no longer available. Still unavailable.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-x-6-ft-Black-Replacement-Vinyl-Roof-for-Pet-Kennel-308606-COVER-R/315969509

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Try Tractor Supply. Last time I checked, they had them.

      Delete

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