Learn the correct way to sharpen a chainsaw to GET THE BEST CUT POSSIBLE!! Covers all the important information you need to do this! I’ve chosen 3 of the most common chains you could have on your chainsaw for this video…a full size 3/8 chain to chisel chain with the biggest teeth, three to five chain which has small cutter teeth and then a 3/8 chain which is a picot chain or a low-profile chain with tiny cutter teeth. I go over how to match a file that fits your chain. From there I’m going to explain the details of the chain, hooks, file guides, uniform angles, the rakers and in the end…how do you actually know if you sharpened your chainsaw right or not?? I have the answers! Watch to find out…
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I had a hell of a time the first few attempts at sharpening a chain. I'd be throwing fine sawdust instead of chips and I'd go in and try to sharpen the chain. When I was done, I'd still be throwing sawdust. Then one day it just snapped in. I don't know what I did different, but it worked. I haven't had a problem since.
Good video. I learned a few things
ReplyDeleteYeeaahhh... I used to do this by hand, but not anymore. My $50 harbor freight chainsaw wheel goes vvvvwwwhhheeerrrrr!!! No more juggling tools, keeping the chainsaw in a vice, etc. I can sharpen several chains in about 15-20 min, I usually do them all at once and store them in a Tupperware with bar oil.
ReplyDeleteArc
I use a spin sharpener marketed by Oregon. It's 12VDC so you can plug it into your truck's "cigarette lighter" socket. Same thing; quick sharpening! I like the Oregon unit because replacement stones are readily available. I keep a couple of packs of them handy at all times.
DeleteI had to use a guide. After a few times I got pretty good at it but always had to use the guide. I watched a video earlier where they make Dremel's to sharpen them now and fast.
ReplyDeleteConsistency with your angle of choice and failure to pay attention to your rakers(depth gauge) are what i have seen to be the most common reasons.
ReplyDeleteKlaus
Dont ferget the rakers! Great Vid!
ReplyDeleteChutes Magoo
I use an Oregon electric bench sharpener when I have a lot of chains to hit but I hand sharpen when I’m out in the wood pile. Every tank of gas I’ll freshen up the chain if I’m not beating it up to much. Just depends on how clean the wood is. If it’s clean I’ll run one chain all day with touch ups. Dirty stuff I usually can get one hand sharpen before it’s just faster to throw on a fresh chain. I have lots of chains for my three saws.
ReplyDeleteHaw. "Don't forget the eye protection, guys ! Put some goggles on !" Safety First ! (swills beer). A true Canadian.
ReplyDeleteI also have an Oregon electric sharpener. I have a cheap chain on my small Poulan. I have to re-sharpen the chain every tank of fuel. I have a larger Stihl where it runs twice as long as the Poulan. t has a much better chain and I can go through 4 or 5 tanks of fuel before it needs to be re-sharpened. The Stihl will wear me out as it is much heavier and can be a bitch to crank if you don't run it every day.
ReplyDeleteI think every single chain saw ought to have a priming button. My arborist's Stihl has one and starts on almost every first pull, even after sitting for a couple of months - after priming it first. My bigger Stihl is old school, and doesn't have one. But I have picked up something from the Chickanic on this - I give it a couple of cold slow pulls with full choke and stepped throttle - then I ease the choke back to half. And it almost always will start on the first or second hard pull this way. Plus, I always use the Stihl factory mix, expensive but: no varnish. My saws sometimes go a month or two between activity, so...
DeleteAnd make sure you bring it up to the compression stroke before trying to start it. That helps too.
DeleteJust my opinion:
ReplyDelete1- I never could use a file guide. I like to be able to see what I'm doing.
2- The biggest improvement in saw chain was when Oregon stated etching the correct angle on the top of the cutter teeth. Very helpful. And Steve already stressed how important it is to hold the file flat, perpendicular to the bar. Don't 'rock the file'.
3- Raker height is important but don't overdo it. Filing the rakers two, maybe three times in the life of the chain ought to do it. And when cutting softwood, rakers should be lower in relation to the cutters than when cutting hardwood.
4- Oregon makes wooden file handles that I really like. Sometimes your saw shop may not carry them, but they can almost always order them for you. And they're cheap.
5- Buy files by the dozen (to save money) and don't try to get too much mileage out of them. Using a good, sharp file makes the job so much easier.
You're the man that would know.
DeleteThanks, Friend. I was lucky to have been taught by some of the best loggers and fallers of my day. It was really interesting to see the techniques of holding the saw that they used. The techniques were all different, and they all worked for them.
DeleteIn learning to file, you just need to learn what makes a saw chain cut and then have fun in improving how to make it work for you. Gimmicky tools can't beat two experienced hands and a good file, and you can't pack a vise into the woods. They may make it easier, but that doesn't mean the quality of the sharpening job is any better.
When you heat with wood you will learn this shit. Hell, I have an old, really old, McCulloch Timber wolf saw, heavy as fook, but has large cutting teeth, and a smooth strong running engine. Ok I have modified it a wee bit, but it’s still heavy bugger. You will learn how to keep the chain sharp if you are a man. If you’re not you will take your tool to a man for him to sharpen. “Oh the humanity”.
ReplyDeleteThe new saws are amazing, but you still have to use a HAND file to keep them cutting right. Like any thing else, quick fix, gadgets, bench grinders, youtube wonder tools are not for real men.
Saber 7, out
How many "how to sharpen a chainsaw" videos have I seen over the years? Must be over a hundred. The major problem is consistency! Being consistent and accurate with BOTH left and right hands is very difficult and that's the root cause of sharpening problems. I used to use the roller guide (https://youtu.be/tQtHdRDxF8E?si=ZOIIl28JjxNJyZsG) back in my wood cutting days and it would still be my #1 choice in the field. In the shop, a mains powered bench grinding wheel sharpener.
ReplyDeleteIn the old days my eye was so good I used a naked file and could sharpen better than a shop could, just like an old bushie. Not any more. My cutting days are over now.
I miss them.